Lore Sjöberg, a reporter for Wired, is today’s guest author. I would be willing to bet a large sum of money he doesn’t realize he’s writing for my blog.
“I live in Berkeley, California, a town so dedicated to gourmet food that if you wanted to find artisanal cheese made with milk from a grass-fed goat that received daily shiatsu massage and affirmations from its own spirit coach, you might have to go to two stores to find it.
There was a time, before sushi hit strip malls, chai hit Starbucks, and Iron Chef hit the airwaves, that this was considered peculiar.
What's an arugula and why does it cost 10 times as much as good old iceberg lettuce? Berkeley prides itself on being peculiar, so all was well.
Things have been changing, though, as things do. I don't go to Sizzler that often, but I'm pretty sure they didn't used to have baby spinach and blue cheese crumbles to go along with the iceberg lettuce and shredded cheddar.
Pizza chains, once wary of this newfangled pesto substance, are now offering all sorts of psychedelic combinations involving artichoke hearts, Thai peanut sauce, hummus, roasted walnuts and presumably some of that massaged goat cheese if you ask politely.
Options are always nice, and I crave novel taste sensations the way panda bears crave bamboo shoots, so initially I thought this was a good thing. And it would be, except that there seems to be some law of food that there's only so much decent flavor in the country, and as more outlets begin to offer it, it starts to taste more and more like something you'd get at a Target snack bar.
Croissants become more like dinner rolls. Burger chains talk up their 'Angus beef' where 'Angus' is apparently Latin for 'indistinguishable from the other stuff.' You start getting sandwiches where the bread is laced with green speckles and topped with white powder, but these may as well be confetti and sawdust for all they add to the flavor. I have a word for food that tries to look like something you'd get at the queen's birthday dinner but tastes like something you'd poke holes in before you microwave it: gourmeh.
I figure there are two reasons there's so much gourmeh food out there these days. First off, the mainstream always prefers it if you take the unknown and make it more, well, known. Rough edges are rounded off. Afrika Bambaataa becomes MC Hammer. Actually torn and worn clothing becomes carefully pre-torn and pre-worn fashion. Secondly, quality food generally costs money. Fresh herbs are expensive, but dry herbs and white flour are cheap, and just changing 'cheeseburger' to 'gourmet deluxe burger du fromage' on the menu costs next to nothing.
My solution, because obviously the world is turning to me as the bellwether of food culture, is to let food be what it is. I love weird cheeses. I have some goat cheese downstairs that may or may not have involved shiatsu, but it is washed-rind. It was made a few miles from here and it's wonderful stuff, but I don't expect that Yum Brands is going to be able to make a gordita out of it without charging more than I'm willing to pay for made-up pseudo-Mexican fast food.
There's a lot of great cheap food out there. Hamburgers and ribs can be amazing even at a family style price point, if you know where to go. It's hard to screw up a hot dog as long as you don't try something stupid like making it healthy. And for God's sake, don't try to make your national chain-restaurant sandwiches gourmet, just work a little harder to make them good.”
The original article can be found here.
“I live in Berkeley, California, a town so dedicated to gourmet food that if you wanted to find artisanal cheese made with milk from a grass-fed goat that received daily shiatsu massage and affirmations from its own spirit coach, you might have to go to two stores to find it.
There was a time, before sushi hit strip malls, chai hit Starbucks, and Iron Chef hit the airwaves, that this was considered peculiar.
What's an arugula and why does it cost 10 times as much as good old iceberg lettuce? Berkeley prides itself on being peculiar, so all was well.
Things have been changing, though, as things do. I don't go to Sizzler that often, but I'm pretty sure they didn't used to have baby spinach and blue cheese crumbles to go along with the iceberg lettuce and shredded cheddar.
Pizza chains, once wary of this newfangled pesto substance, are now offering all sorts of psychedelic combinations involving artichoke hearts, Thai peanut sauce, hummus, roasted walnuts and presumably some of that massaged goat cheese if you ask politely.
Options are always nice, and I crave novel taste sensations the way panda bears crave bamboo shoots, so initially I thought this was a good thing. And it would be, except that there seems to be some law of food that there's only so much decent flavor in the country, and as more outlets begin to offer it, it starts to taste more and more like something you'd get at a Target snack bar.
Croissants become more like dinner rolls. Burger chains talk up their 'Angus beef' where 'Angus' is apparently Latin for 'indistinguishable from the other stuff.' You start getting sandwiches where the bread is laced with green speckles and topped with white powder, but these may as well be confetti and sawdust for all they add to the flavor. I have a word for food that tries to look like something you'd get at the queen's birthday dinner but tastes like something you'd poke holes in before you microwave it: gourmeh.
I figure there are two reasons there's so much gourmeh food out there these days. First off, the mainstream always prefers it if you take the unknown and make it more, well, known. Rough edges are rounded off. Afrika Bambaataa becomes MC Hammer. Actually torn and worn clothing becomes carefully pre-torn and pre-worn fashion. Secondly, quality food generally costs money. Fresh herbs are expensive, but dry herbs and white flour are cheap, and just changing 'cheeseburger' to 'gourmet deluxe burger du fromage' on the menu costs next to nothing.
My solution, because obviously the world is turning to me as the bellwether of food culture, is to let food be what it is. I love weird cheeses. I have some goat cheese downstairs that may or may not have involved shiatsu, but it is washed-rind. It was made a few miles from here and it's wonderful stuff, but I don't expect that Yum Brands is going to be able to make a gordita out of it without charging more than I'm willing to pay for made-up pseudo-Mexican fast food.
There's a lot of great cheap food out there. Hamburgers and ribs can be amazing even at a family style price point, if you know where to go. It's hard to screw up a hot dog as long as you don't try something stupid like making it healthy. And for God's sake, don't try to make your national chain-restaurant sandwiches gourmet, just work a little harder to make them good.”
The original article can be found here.
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